the west highland way with a 3 year old: day three
 
day 3 trail notes | balmaha to rowardennan
 
the affric kintail way with two 4 year olds: day two
 
day 2 trail notes | loch affric to alltbeithe youth hostel
 
 
stats
 
weather:
started overcast, ended sunny
accommodation:
permit wild camp
steps:
20,692k
planned mileage:
5 miles
actual mileage:
5 miles
total day mileage:
9.11 miles
despite little going to bed around 930 the night before, i was really surprised & somewhat disappointed when she woke at 645. not only was i was really hoping for a bit of a longer of a lie in this morning as my nights sleep was rubbish, she never ever wakes that early at home. she was adamant she wasn't letting me put her in her sleeping bag as she was insistent of using mine, which meant we were both cold throughout the night as neither of us were fully wrapped in a bag. she slept soundly wrapped in the part of my sleeping bag she had, yet i kept waking cold & worried that she wasn't ok. not ideal, however, it being a short day today i wasn't as bothered about the lack of sleep on my part. i was also somewhat glad to be up that early because we both needed showers & it meant we could have some without the morning rush of other campers.
breakfast was in the backpackers hut after a lovely hot shower. the campsite had a nice separate roofed area for backpackers with a table, plugs, sinks & food prep area, so we ate breakfast there. i had my porridge & little didn't want the different type of porridge she begged me to bring along or the one i had either, so she settled on an apple instead. i managed to somehow break the part of my stove that lights the gas, but thankfully had a backup lighter with me so porridge could commence.
finally set off for the day around 10 oclock. we managed to get a permit for the camping at lochan maoil dhunnie for the night so it should only be a short day of around 5 miles. my plan was to get there quick & set up, then spend the rest of the day just relaxing on the pebble beach. that did not happen. the lack of substantial breakfast for one small person meant the pace & energy was slow & low. the unexpected sun didn't help, it was beaming down on us & we weren't dressed for it. the forecast for the duration of our hike was overcast & rainy, so the sun took us by surprise.
a few oat bars, apples & other snacks got her going enough until we stopped at cashel campsite to try get supplies for the next few days. since we are walking slower than the normal hiker itineraries breakdown, we have to carry more food as we aren't passing the usual daily food stops until a day or two later. i was told we would be able to stock up at cashel shop, but like most of the wee shops on route, they lack the basics to make a meal. usually no bread, rice, noodles etc type food to hold you over, just chocolate, snacks & juices. we made do with some cuppa soups & noodles though. the owner of the campsite was incredibly kind to little, gifting her a windmill to play with in the breeze outside. delighted with that, we poddled on.
we found a nice spot on the loch just off trail for lunch after about an hour of walking slowly. off came both our socks & shoes for a rest, little played with the pebbles while i got some ham wraps ready for lunch. she was fascinated by this huge hollow tree that was on the shore & wanted to play in & around it, but unfortunately it was badly burnt & full of broken glass. a shame!
by this point, we were a few hours into our day & the lack of milage covered was stressing me a little. i had in my head that this day would be so quick & easy due to the short milage, but it just wasn't the case at all. after we had eaten i gave little a five minute warning that we'd be setting off again to continue on, but she wasn't having it at all. all she wanted to do was play on the pebble beach where we stopped but couldn't understand that if we pushed on quickly to our permit campsite, also on a pebble beach, then she could play for the rest of the day until bedtime. i understood her hesitation to want to carry on, she didn't sleep enough nor did she eat enough breakfast & she was having fun. she did eventually understand what i was trying to say & we set off.
eventually our pace picked up a little & we were making good time which i was happy about. the sun was really beaming down on us by this point & the lack of sun appropriate clothing was adding to my mood.
we briefly stop at sallochy campsite for a feet break & toilet break. this was the first toilet we had past that had a child seat for the toilet, so little was delighted that she could do it herself without me having to hold her over the seat. couldn't believe this! a wee compostable toilet in the middle of what felt like nowhere & it had family friendly facilities lol
once we got going again i offered little a ride in the carrier to give her a break & to hopefully get moving more since we were on flatish ground. i didn't really want to as i was cooking, melting almost but i just wanted the day done. this lasted all for about .5 of a mile until we reached the hill after sallochy campsite.
all i can say about that is it's brutal! surprisingly, i'd never heard anyone mention a big incline after the campsite & it didn't look too bad on my route scale at the time, but boy it wiped me. i can now see the big red section which should've showed me we were in for a workout! she was straight out the carrier to walk up it & it felt never ending.
6 hours later from leaving milarrochy bay we arrived at the permit zone sign. another thing never mentioned or read about in my research was that this camping area is downhill off the trail. i in my head thought it was on a flat area by the trail, but that's not the case. thankfully there's a path but she's steep. will be a warm up on the legs in the morning that's for sure!
this area has 5 permits available a night for camping, so there's plenty space in theory for all hikers arranging at different times, however, majority of the area is in the woods which is full of roots & rocks, so spaces are slim really. thankfully being the second ones to arrive meant we managed to get a look around fo a spot, which we decided on the loch shores. insanely beautiful. it was so peaceful, no one pitched near us, they all went to the other side of the area, so we were by ourselves. the birds, the waves & a lovely sunset.
getting the tent up was a little bit of a hassle as we don't have the right pegs for rocks or stones, so i had to get them in as far as i could then bury them with pebbles to keep them down. little did fantastic to help with this & made sure they were fully covered. we chose a wee super noodle dinner & watched the birds fly around the loch while we ate.
after dinner we explored around a bit. played on the beach, climbed the near by rocks & just relaxed before bed. little was in bed & asleep for 730, much needed after a hot day of hiking. i followed behind shortly after, with the sounds of the waves from the loch sending me straight to sleep.
in hindsight, this day went a way it shouldn't. i have no idea why i was so short & snappy with little all day, causing myself to be stressed over things that didn't need stressing. i should've just embraced the slow, easy pace that she wanted to go at while taking in her surroundings, rather than constantly thinking of the end goal. i apologised a few times for my behaviour towards her & have taken it on board for the following days.
costs of the day
campsite -
permit at lochan maoil dhuinne £4.20
restock -
cashel campsite £15
total £19.20
iphone shots
a selection of shots taken on my phone during the day.